Creating With Cricut

This post was created in partnership with Cricut.  All opinions are my own.
#SewWithCricut #CricutMade #Cricut #Ad

Hey all!  Today I’ve got an awesome DIY project for you using the amazing Cricut Explore Air 2 machine!  I got this machine just a couple weeks ago and within about an hour of unboxing, had the whole thing connected to my computer and smoothly cutting out samples.

If you’re unfamiliar with the world of cutting machines let me just give you the teensiest preview: This baby cuts vinyl, iron-on, paper and cardstock, leather, chipboard and FABRIC to name a few (yes, fabric!! I’m already in love).

I’ve put together a fun video showing a step by step tutorial for cutting out and ironing on the flowers on this cute swing dress I made but I also wanted to share my favorite features of this little baby!
* It’s WIRELESS!  Excuse the shouting but I honestly am drowning in cords on my desk and am super short on space so I really appreciate a device that can cut from across the room.  And they even have a smartphone app you can design and cut from!
* It is beautiful and has handly little storage compartments where I can store tools for weeding, scissors, pens, etc.
* It cuts so. many. things.  Did I mention that already?
* It’s ridiculously user friendly.  I can usually figure out a device, given enough time, but guys – my MOM could figure out this thing (no offense, Ma, be we know you’re not that great with the technology).  Once you’ve designed your shape on Cricut’s super easy design site, you just set the machine to cut the correct material, load the mat and press ONE button.  It really is dummy proof.

You can read more about it and shop for your own HERE – Use coupon code ChristmasinJuly for free shipping (US only)!

Last thing…Today is just day one in an AMAZING line up of talented sewing bloggers who are featuring this awesome machine over the enxt 2 weeks.  Their projects are gonna knock your socks off, I’m serious.  I wanna grow up to be just like them all!  Be sure to check them all out and enter to win your OWN amazing Cricut machine at the link at the bottom of this post!

But enough talk!  Scroll on for the video and let me know what you think!

NOTE:  I essentially used this tutorial for my dress.  It’s one of the easiest dresses you can make and SO comfy!  Also, if you’re looking for the flowers I used in my design, you can find them here: 1, 2, 3, 4.


Enter to Win a Cricut Explore Air 2 

Week One: July 19th

Week Two: July 26th

I was invited to participate in the Cricut Party Blogger Program Kickoff.

This experience is based strictly on my opinion.  Others may have a different opinion or experience with the product listed above.  I was provided the sample free of charge by the company or PR agency and I have given my honest opinion.

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

Tiered Ruffle Skirt Tutorial + A Chance to Give Back!

Ruffles are all the rage right now; make an adorable tiered ruffle skirt for your little girl (or yourself)!

Last year I was involved with Skirting the Issue: Project Run and Play‘s massive effort to donate new handmade skirts to girls in foster care before they go back to school.  It was so fun and rewarding! I’m excited to post about it again only this time with a brand new tutorial.  You can learn all about the effort here, including how to participate yourself.  It runs through July, so let’s get sewing!

I’ve been seeing tiered ruffle skirts all over the place lately and finally got a chance to try to make one. I used this cute red & white polka dot chiffon from my stash, along with a white cotton woven for the lining.  Read on for the full tutorial!

What you’ll need (for a girls’ size 6):

1-2 yard woven fashion fabric (I used chiffon; you could also use quilting cotton, rayon, linen, or just about any light to mid-weight fabric)
1 yard lining (optional)
22″ 1″ elastic
coordinating thread

  1.  First we’ll need to cut our fashion fabric into a variety of strips, one of each of the following measurements:
    *waistband: 28″ x 3″
    *skirt body: 28″ x 6″
    *ruffles: 47″ x 6″ (cut TWO, 1 for top ruffle and 1 for bottom)Cut the following strips out of your lining fabric (or out of the same fashion fabric)
    *skirt body lining: 28″ x 6″ (optional – I only needed a lining for the skirt body because my fashion fabric was sheer)
    *top ruffle lining: 30″ x 5″
    *bottom ruffle lining: 32″ x 4″NOTE: As a rule, I always use a 3/8″ SA unless otherwise noted.
  2. Sew your skirt body into a loop by stitching short ends RST, and press well (if you’re using a sheer fabric like I did, first baste your skirt body lining to wrong side of skirt body before sewing into a loop.)
  3. Create waistband by also sewing short ends together (RST) and pressing.  Then fold waistband loop in half lengthwise (like a hotdog!), WST and press well.  (I didn’t line my waistband because the elastic made it opaque, but I probably should have for durability’s sake). 
  4. Sew waistband to skirt body: pin them together, with raw edges lined up and right sides together, and stitch, leaving about 2″ of the seam open. Press waistband away from skirt.
  5. Insert elastic: pin a safety pin to one edge of the elastic and thread it through your waistband casing until it comes out the other end.  Stitch raw edges of elastic together with a zig zag stitch, being careful not to twist elastic.  Close up hole in waistband seam and finish raw edges with a serger or zig zag.
  6. Take the top ruffle piece and stitch it into a loop by sewing together short edges, RST . Gather your ruffle by stitching 2 lines of basting, 1/4″ and 1/2″ from the raw edge.  Pull thread taut and gather fabric. Take your lining piece and cut each short edge down diagonally by 1″ so that the top edge now measures 28″ and the bottom still measures 30″ (this makes the lining piece more of an A-line shape so that your little girl can walk better in it)  Then sew your lining piece into a loop as well and then baste ruffle to lining.  

  7. Sew the ruffle to the skirt body, matching back seams and lining up raw edges.  Adjust gathering if necessary to fit.

  8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 with the bottom ruffle (only when cutting down lining, your top raw edge will end up measuring 30″ instead of 28″ – so that it matches the bottom of your top lining).
  9. Hem both ruffles by turning under raw edge 1/8″ and then again 1/4″ and stitching close to fold.  If your fabric is slippery, you can sew down first fold before folding a second time to keep fabric in place.  Press well. That’s it!  Super cute little skirt that takes hardly any time to put together.  I hope you enjoy this little project and let me know if anyone tries it for themselves!  I’m dying to make an adult version along the lines of some amazing inspiration skirts below!

A Fancy 4th of July – Ruffle Skirt DIY

Copy one of the trendiest looks this year with a DIY ruffle hem wrap skirt!
Ruffles are everywhere and this one is SO easy to replicate.

Hey all! Summer is here and our family’s hanging with friends and cousins, at the pool most days and living off popsicles :).  Before we know it, it’ll be time for Independence Day bbq’s and fireworks!

This year I wanted to make a celebratory 4th of July outfit (since a girl only needs so many American flag t-shirts) and I wanted to be able to wear it after the holiday as well.

This skirt was inspired by the myriads of ruffly wrap skirts we keep seeing this season and it turned out just the way I was envisioning! It may look complicated but it is so NOT. If you can sew a straight line, you can make this skirt!  (Or check out these links to my fave ready-to-wear versions!)

NOTE: These measurements worked well for my post-baby waist measurement of about 34″…if you’re significantly smaller or larger than that, you may need to make some adjustments, although a wrap skirt is very flexible!  Also, I use a 3/8″ seam allowance throughout.

Let’s do it!

What you’ll need:

3 yards of 54″ striped blue & white shirting (this is the fabric used to make men’s shirts and what I used, but any number of fabrics could work for this.  A rayon would be flowy and gorgeous!)
Lightweight fusible interfacing (enough to line a strip of fabric 54″ x 3″)
Coordinating thread

1. Cut your fabric into the following: 1 piece measuring 54″ x 27″ for the skirt body and 3 pieces measuring 54″ x 20″ for the ruffles (you’ll also have a scrap piece leftover – save this for the waistband).  Lay the skirt body on the floor and cut one long side into a rough “U” shape as pictured. My short sides ended up being about 9″ long on the left, 11″ long on the right and the longest middle portion measured 26″ long.  This doesn’t have to be really precise so don’t stress!

2. Now we need to add some darts to the top of the skirt in order to account for the difference between  hips and waist.  Wrap this piece of fabric around you with the straight edge at your waist. Pinch any excess fabric at the waist, in 2 or 4 different places, and pin.  (I originally only made two 2″ darts in the back (as you can see in the photo below), but after wearing the skirt once, I realized I need to add 2 more at the sides or front.). Sew the darts from top of skirt down and instead of backstitching, tie your thread tails in a knot (my darts were 7″ long but this depends on the length of your waist).  The amount you take in for darts should roughly equal the difference between your waist and hip measurements.

Hem short sides of skirt (I didn’t do this before adding ruffles which was a mistake!)

3. Take the other 3 rectangles (measuring 20″ x 54″) and gather each piece along one long side: sew a gathering stitch about 1/4″ from the raw edge and then a second row of stitching about 1/2″ from the first row. Pull your bobbin threads taut and gather the fabric. Sew your three gathered pieces into one long piece by stitching them together along the short sides.  Hem short ends of ruffle.

4. Pin the gathered edge of your ruffle to the bottom (curved edge) of your skirt, right sides together, by matching up raw edges and distributing gathered fabric evenly.  Stitch ruffle to skirt by sewing between your two rows of basting; remove any basting thread that shows on the right side of the skirt. Finish seam and press well.

5. Create waistband and ties by cutting remaining fabric into 2 long strips, each measuring 2.75″ x 54″.  Take one strip and add the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of fabric.  Then sew the RIGHT side of this strip (waistband) to the WRONG side of the top of your skirt (see pic below).

6.  Press waistband and seam allowance up, then press down opposite raw edge of waistband 3/8″.  Finally, fold waistband in half lengthwise and topstitch on the front of waistband, very close to fold.

7.  Now take the remaining strip of fabric and cut it so that you have 2 pieces, one measuring about 37″ long and the other 18″. As you can see from the pictures, I wrap mine so that it ties on my left side which means that when looking at my skirt flat on the floor (ruffle closest to me), the left tie is super long (that’s the 37″ tie) and the right tie is shorter (18″).  Sew each of these ties to their respective sides of the waistband and iron the ties so they lay like the waistband (raw edges folded under 3/8″ and then folded in half lengthwise).

8.  Finally, topstitch close to the open edge, all the way down to the end of the ties so they’re closed up.  Then fold under short raw ends and topstitch those too.

9.  Finally, try your skirt on by wrapping the left side over your body first, then the right side over it.  Figure out where you want your left tie to go through the waistband on your right side; add a buttonhole there.  Again, this placement is very flexible since you can tie your skirt as tight or as loose as you like.  Finish by hemming your ruffle and voila!  All done!

 

I hope you love wearing your flouncy flamenco-like skirt and showing off your mad skills.  Comment and let me know what you think of this ruffle-mania trend going around and if you’d wear a crazy number like this one!

DIY Ruffle Sleeve Top

This super simple ruffle sleeve top is sure to be a new favorite and is totally on trend!  Check out the full tutorial…

I haven’t done too much sewing for myself in the last year or so; pregnancy and birth makes for an ever changing body that’s tricky to fit!

But I’m SO glad I started again and gave this top a try because it is currently my very favorite shirt out of my whole closet. It skims over my belly bulge without being too boxy, it’s got a cute sleeve detail and anything black and white striped is just classic.  I was inspired by a similar top from J. Crew a few months ago and I can’t imagine I’d love the original any more than this one!

It’s super duper easy to recreate, I just encourage you to find the best quality knit fabric you can find.  A sturdy knit (like a cotton/spandex blend) will make all the difference in drape and durability.  I’ve also included a link to an illustration with cutting instructions and all the measurements I used; my shirt fits like a size medium/large.

Ready? Let’s get making!

Supplies:

1-1.5 yards high quality stretch knit
Coordinating thread
Get the illustration with all my measurements here

1. Grab a T-shirt with a great fit to use as a template.  Fold your fabric in half (with the stretch running perpendicular to the fold) and your ready-to-wear (RTW) tee in half lengthwise (from neckline to hem). Lay your RTW tee on your fabric, with folds aligned, and cut out your front bodice by following the lines of your tee.  Be sure to leave a seam allowance  along the shoulder, armhole and side seams (I usually eyeball about 1/2″) and a hem allowance along the bottom (about 1″).

2. Do the same thing for your back bodice and sleeves.  Be sure that the stretch of your fabric is running around the circumference of your sleeve (from underarm seam to fold).  Cut out 2 sleeve ruffles measuring 35″ x 5″ (the direction of stretch doesn’t matter on the ruffles). Be sure to save a long scrap for your neckband!

3.  With right sides together (RST), sew your front to back along shoulder seams and side seams.  Finishing the seam (with a zig zag or serger) is optional with knit fabrics.

4. Sew your first sleeve into a tube by folding it in half lengthwise, RST, and stitching along the straight edge. Repeat with the second sleeve.

5. Create your ruffles by first sewing the strips into tubes: fold them in half widthwise RST and stitch along the short ends.  Next, gather them along one opening: I like to sew a basting stitch about 1/4″ away from the raw edge, then another basting stitch about 1/4″ from the first line of stitching.  Pull the bobbin thread taut from each line of stitching while pulling the fabric into gathers.

6. With sleeve RIGHT side out and ruffle WRONG side out, slip the bottom of the ruffle over the bottom edge of the sleeve.  Match up gathered edge of ruffle to bottom edge of sleeve and pin, adjusting gathers to fit.  Stitch in place; remove any basting stitch that shows on the right side, if necessary.

7. With bodice WRONG side out and sleeve RIGHT side out, insert bottom of sleeve into bodice armhole until top of sleeve and bodice armhole are flush; pin raw edges together, matching seams and stretching to fit, if necessary.

8. For the neckline: measure around the opening of your neckline and subtract 2″ (give or take 1-2″ depending on the stretchiness of your fabric. This is kind of a trial and error thing!). Cut out a neckband measuring this number x 2″. For example, if your neckline measures 21″, then your neckband would need to be 19″ x 2″.  Stitch neckband into a tube by sewing together along short sides, RST. Fold tube in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press.

9. Pin neckband to neckline RST by matching raw edges, with neckband seam in center of bodice back, and by inserting pins evenly in 4 places: at shoulder seams and at center front and center back. BASTE neckband to bodice, stretching to fit.  At this point, try on your shirt to determine if the neckband is the proper length.  It should lie flat without any puckering or flopping over.  If so, you’re ready to stitch it on securely, if not, take the band off and either cut it slightly shorter or cut a new longer one!

10.  Once you’ve stitched neckband in place, finish the seam with a zig zag stitch or serger.  Press seam allowance towards bodice, then topstitch close to seam on bodice side using a double needle.  It’s very important that you NOT stretch the fabric while topstitching so that the neckline doesn’t end up wavy and stretched out.

11.  Hem sleeves and bottom of shirt by topstitching with a double needle.

And you’re done!  Try it on and admire your handiwork…doesn’t it look amazing??

Photos by Let Me See You Sparkle

Easter Pinafore Pattern Hack

Another simple yet adorable Infinite A-line pattern hack – just in time for Easter!

I was really hesitant to commit to sewing everyone Easter dresses this year. After all, I have a newborn and five girls to sew for.  Some people might call that crazy.

But crazy has always held a certain appeal for me.

When designing this dress, I was really inspired by all the gingham popping up everywhere lately; it just screams spring to me! I also really wanted to make another pinafore style like this one I did last year.

This is another Infinite A-line pattern hack, although I decided to keep the back bodice piece on this one instead of just using straps.

To create this style, I followed the Infinite A-line dress instructions for View D and just discarded the side bodice pieces instead of sewing them to the center & ruffles.

Then I loosely followed these instructions to create a waistband and facing.  After you’ve cut them out, you’ll sew the short ends of each piece together, to create 2 loops.  Place 4 pins in the band and facing, all equidistance apart (one pin will be in the seam you just sewed).  Pin the band and facing to the front and back of bodice (as shown in the other tutorial), matching 2 of the pins in band/facing with the centers of the bodices.  Be sure the seam you just sewed is on the side of the dress so it won’t be as visible.  Then sew the bands to the bodices and continue following the other tutorial to attach the skirt.

It’s really a very simple and straightforward dress… the only problem I had was accidentally serging a big HOLE in the center of the waistband after thisone was almost complete! It was also after midnight at the time and I admit, I cried a little bit.

But all’s well that ends well! And now I just have six days to sew four more dresses. I can do it right??

Pray for me.

Get your own copy of the pattern HERE and let me know what you’re making for Easter this year!

(You can find the tutorial for this woven Easter basket HERE – the bottom zips off so that it stores flat!
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DIY Nursing-Friendly Nightgown

The first few weeks after having a baby are my favorite; it’s the only time you’re allowed to just sit around in pjs all day long, resting, eating whatever you want and snuggling a precious new baby.  Life doesn’t get any better!

Today I’ve got a tutorial for the perfect postpartum nightgown: long, stretchy, lots of coverage and nursing-accessible!  Of course you can make one even if you don’t have a new baby, and if you leave off the placket, it’s a super quick project!

(Be sure to subscribe to my new weekly newsletter to get all the latest tutorials in your inbox!)

Supplies:

2 yards very stretchy knit fabric
4 matching buttons (if attaching optional placket)
10″ x 10″ piece of lightweight fusible interfacing
coodinating thread

1. Find the stretch of your fabric and fold in half with the stretch running horizontally (perpendicular to the fold).  Cut out front and back of nightgown according to diagram (the diagram show just the front bodice being cut out on the fold, but you’ll need to cut out a back as well!).  Cut out sleeves and placket also, ensuring that the stretch runs across the width of the sleeves.

2. Lay your front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together.  Sew along the shoulders and side seams, using a stretch stitch or serger, Press seams well.

3. Sew underarm seams of sleeves by folding sleeve in half lengthwise, RST, and stitching along the long raw edge, using a stretch stitch.  Press well and repeat with second sleeve.

4. Turn bodice inside out and sleeve right side out.  Insert your sleeve into the sleeve opening of bodice (insert narrower opening in first!), matching up raw edges and underarm seam with bodice side seam.  Stitch sleeve to bodice using a stretch stitch; press well.

5.  Fold under raw edges of sleeves and bodice hem and topstitch using a double needle; press well.  You can also choose to leave your sleeves and hem raw since knit doesn’t fray!

6.  Create neck facing: Measure the circumference of your neckline and subtract 1-2″ (you want your facing to be shorter than your neckline so that it pulls the neckline taut when sewn together.  How much shorter depends on the stretch of the fabric…here I cut mine 2″ shorter that the neckline because my fabric was super stretchy; if your fabric is less stretchy, try making it just 1″ shorter.  It’s kind of a trial and error thing!)  Cut out a neck facing measuring 1″ x the length you just calculated (neckline minus 1-2″).  Sew short ends of facing, right sides together, to create a loop.

7.  Pin facing to neckline, right sides together, stretching facing to distribute evenly around neckline.  Stitch facing to neckline using a 1/4″ seam allowance and a stretch stitch, again stretching facing to fit.  Press facing & seam allowance away from bodice, and then press raw edge of facing under 1/4″.  Fold facing to inside of garment, pressing again.  Topstitch facing to bodice, close to folded edge, using a stretch stitch.

This video is a great resource for sewing a knit facing, in case you haven’t done this technique before!

8.  OPTIONAL button placket: Cut a rectangle out of the center front of your your nightgown measuring 10″ x 1″.  Here I’m gonna save you the chore of reading a really wordy explanation that doesn’t make any sense and instead have you watch this video! It’s a great, simple explanation for inserting a placket.  (Note: I used a very lightweight interfacing because I was using a very thin knit fabric…you don’t want to go too much heavier than your fabric!)

And voila!  A perfectly cozy, comfy nightgown perfect for lounging with or without a new baby!

DIY Girl’s Leotard

Make your little girl her own unique leotard, and save a ton of money while you’re at it, with this free pattern & tutorial!


I’m so excited about today’s DIY because it’s so cute, fun and functional!  My girls LOVE leotards, whether they’re jumping on the trampoline, doing gymnastics & dance classes or just dressing up.  The only problem is, if you want anything other than plain black, they’re ridiculously expensive!

After making swimsuits for the girls last year, I decided it couldn’t be all that hard to make my own leotards.  And turns out, it isn’t!  Really!  The best part is that you can give your little girl as much coverage as you’d like.
Read on for the full tutorial and free pattern!

NOTE: the pattern fits about a size 6, but scaling it up or down is not too difficult.  It’s designed for a little girl with a crotch-shoulder measurement of about 36″ (loop a measuring tape from one shoulder, down your model’s front, between her legs and up the back to the same shoulder).  You’ll just need to add or subtract inches from the center of the leotard in order to go up or down a few sizes.

If going up or down more than 2 sizes, you’ll also need to add/subtract a bit of length in the shoulder straps.  Performance fabric is super stretchy though, so it’s very forgiving!  You might try laying a swimsuit that fits your little girl on top of the pattern and seeing where you need to make adjustments.

You’ll need:

*Printed copy of the free pattern (download here – make sure your printer’s set to “do not scale” or “print at 100%” before printing! Overlap short edge of each page with the next without trimming & tape together)
*1/2 – 1 yard of performance lycra or spandex blend (i.e. swimsuit fabric) My favorite source for cute prints is The Fabric Fairy!
*1.5 – 2 yards clear elastic (like this kind)
*coordinating thread

STEP 1: Cut out the paper pattern and decide whether you want to do any color blocking or stripes.  For Kira’s leotard here, I  decided I wanted two diagonal stripes (black and pink) running across the front.  I drew the stripes where I wanted them on the pattern, then cut out a center panel of the pattern piece.

I cut out the top and bottom of the leotard front out of the floral fabric, and then used the center strips I cut out from the pattern to cut black and pink strips.  NOTE: you’ll always need to add a seam allowance (I used 1 cm) where you’ll be sewing these pieces together.  For example, I added an extra 1 cm to the top and bottom of both the pink and black stripes before cutting and sewing them to each other and then to the top and bottom floral pieces.

Also cut 1 leotard back and 1 gusset out of matching or coordinating fabric.

STEP 2: Sew front and back pieces, right sides together, along the shoulders and side seams, leaving the crotch unsewn for now.

STEP 3:  Sew gusset to inside front of leotard (wrong sides together), matching up one short end of gusset with raw edge of leotard front.  Sew along this short edge and both sides of gusset (leaving the other short end loose).  Then match up the leotard back and front crotch and sew, right sides together.

STEP 4: Here comes the only tricky part! Measure your model around her shoulders and upper thigh, where you want the edge of the leotard to sit.  Keep the measuring tape taut, but not too tight.  Then cut a piece of elastic about 2 cm SHORTER than this measurement, for all 4 openings (2 arms and 2 legs).  Do the same for the neckline, for a total of 5 pieces of elastic. Be sure to not mix them up!

STEP 5: Stitch the elastic to the edge of each opening using a zig zag stitch, stretching slightly as you go so that the elastic fits the opening.  I overlap it a teensy bit where the elastic edges meet.  (This is a good time to try leotard on your model and adjust opening if necessary!)
Then fold the raw edge under to hide the elastic and topstitch close to the fold, again using a zig zag stitch.  Repeat for all openings.

**If you have trouble getting any of the openings to fit correctly, you can also try basting the elastic in place and then trying it on your little one.  After you do it a couple times you’ll get the hang of it!

Voila!  Aren’t you so proud of your mad skills??  Now go whip up 3 more and make all the little girls in your life squeal with joy! (and save yourselve oodles of dough.)

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How to Hem your own pants – new video!

Never miss out on the perfect pair of pants again – just because they’re too long!

Hey all!

I’m SO happy to post my first DIY video for you today…  It’s the perfect tutorial for the beginning sewer: how to hem pants!

If you’re under about 6 feet tall, then chances are good you’ve found at least one pair of pants you love that are too long for you.  Well, no more, my friends!  Save your alteration money and put that dusty machine to good use by hemming your own.

The video also includes instructions for hemming stretchy pants like leggings, as well as creating an invisible hem on nicer slacks like suit pants.  Enjoy!


DIY Nursing-Friendly Nightgown

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How to Hem your own pants – new video!

Never miss out on the perfect pair of pants again - just because they're too long! Hey all! I'm SO ...
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DIY Sequined Party Dress

Make the perfect party dress with this simple tutorial.  You can make it maternity-friendly or not! Sequined fabric from Joann ...
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DIY Flutter Sleeve Dress

Well, I'm officially pregnant enough that it's getting difficult to dress this bump.  You'd think I'd have this great wardrobe ...
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DIY Sequined Party Dress

Make the perfect party dress with this simple tutorial.  You can make it maternity-friendly or not!


Sequined fabric from Joann Fabrics (in store) || Heels: Sam Edelman (on sale!)

I don’t get to go to a lot of fancy parties…but when I do, I’m always scrambling last minute to find something dressy, flattering and not too skanky to wear!

If you’re panicking about New Year’s Eve (tomorrow!), it’s not too late to whip up the perfect party dress.  This sequined number is super easy and can be made to cover as much or as little as you want!

As you can see, I don’t mind covering a 7 month pregnant belly in sequins thereby resembling a giant disco ball, …but obviously this dress can also be made more fitted for a non-maternity version.

Read on for the full tutorial!

[Read more…]

Maternity DIY Roundup

If you’re expecting a baby, and running out of cute outfit ideas, check out these amazing maternity tutorials!

maternity-diy-roundup

Being pregnant is such an exciting and wonderful time of life…until nothing fits!  If you’re loathe to spend money on stuff you’ll only wear for 6 months (or can’t find anything you love) click on over to some of these amazing maternity DIY’s!  They’re all free, simple tutorials and will have you feeling like a million bucks in no time.

  1.  Ruffle Hem Shift Dress by Merrick’s Art
  2. Flutter Sleeve Dress by Whisk ‘Em
  3. DIY Maternity Jeans by What’s Up Moms
  4. Chartreuse Easter Dress by Elle Apparel Blog
  5. Quick Criss Cross Maternity Top by Cotton and Curls
  6. Maternity Dress by The Sara ProjectHappy sewing, mamas!